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The Art of Bullfighting is traditional Mexico at its' best. The Plaza Monumental in Ciudad Juarez is the 4th largest bullring in the world seating 17,000 spectators. The largest in Mexico City seats 65,000. These are just two of more than 225 in the country.
Ernest Hemingway called it "Death in the Afternoon." In fact, the outcome of every fight is almost always the death of the bull. However if a bull puts up a particularly valiant effort, the crowd will at times refuse permission for the kill. This is a sport with much spectator participation and possibly not for the very squeamish.
Each "fight" is a ritualistic three part play performed six times. As a rule three matadors (or toreros) will fight two bulls apiece making a total of six fights.
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Two ears for a great fight
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When the bull is first released into the ring, a torero or an assistant will take a few passes with the cape to see how the bull reacts. This is followed soon by the picadors on horseback accompanied by loud "boo's" from the crowd. The picador draws first blood by pushing the ends of long lances into the back of the bull.
Once the picadors depart the ring, a young torero aide places three pairs of colored banderillas into the bull's hump with a great show of bravado. The torero then begins to work the bull with the cape in the manner that most of us think of as traditional. Each pass of the cape is accompanied by shouts of "Ole."
When ready, the torero requests permission for the kill. Given permission he then has 16 minutes to complete the job or suffer great derision and shame. The kill is performed in a very ritualistic manner ideally with the torero shoving a long sword deep into the bulls back between the shoulder blades in one swift deadly blow. Anything less than perfection can again result in the crowd's derision.
A judge (also taking his cues from the crowd) will award the torero nothing, one ear, two ears, or (in exceptional cases) two ears and the tail depending on the quality of his performance. The successful torero then struts around the ring basking in the adoration of the spectators and dodging the hats and other objects tossed into the arena.
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Ritual and pageantry are the order of the day
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The picador draws first blood
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The bullfights in Juarez take place about every second or third Sunday from about the middle of May through August. The next fight has been scheduled for Sunday September 3rd at 6 PM.
Ticket prices range from about $8 to $45 depending on the proximity to the ring and whether you sit on the sunny or shady (sombra) side. Good seats (preferencia) on the shady side will run you about $24.
Plaza Monumental is located just next to the Rio Grande Mall at 4630 Paseo Triunfo de la Republica. The days activities will begin at 5 or 6pm and will generally conclude by 8 or 9pm. We also recommend that you bring along a soft cushion or spend a couple of dollars for one of the souvenir cushions sold just inside the arena. The seats are concrete and can get quite hard in a short time. Beer, soft drinks and other goodies are sold by vendors wandering through the crowd. Do not bring your own drinks as you will not be allowed to bring them into the plaza.
OLE !
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The torero places banderillas
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The judge holds up handkerchiefs to award the ears.
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